The history of denim
European rising
In the 17th and 18th centuries, in the French city of Nîmes, the textile “Serge de Nîmes” was developed in an unsuccessful attempt to replicate another fabric. It was a durable twill textile made of wool and silk. Cotton was later introduced as a more affordable alternative. The name denim is derived from “de Nîmes”, meaning “from Nîmes.”
Around the same time, a similar textile existed in the Italian city of Genoa (now Genova). “Les bleu de Gênes”, meaning “the blue from Genoa”, was a sturdy fabric made from cotton and wool, dyed with indigo imported from India. The word jean is derived from “Gênes.”
Although the exact origins are still debated, there is a general consensus that denim originated in Europe. This strong fabric was especially used by sailors — for both clothing and sails — and for that reason, it quickly spread to many countries, including America.
American optimization
During the California Gold Rush in the 1850s, German-born Levi Strauss opened a store in San Francisco, where denim imported from Europe was part of the inventory. Tailor Jacob Davis was a regular customer, purchasing denim for making durable textile items. A gold mining company approached Davis with a request for hard-wearing trousers suitable for intense physical labour.
Davis decided to construct trousers from denim and reinforced the seams with copper rivets. However, he needed a patent for his invention and turned to Strauss, who saw the potential in the idea. In 1873, Strauss and Davis formed a partnership and began producing Levi Strauss & Co.’s most iconic and groundbreaking product: the Levi’s 501 jeans.
Miners, railroad workers, and cowboys wore these durable and affordable trousers — hence the name “cowboy pants.” After World War II, jeans were adopted by rebellious youth. As the range of styles expanded, jeans became mainstream, no longer representing just hard work or rebellion, but also casual comfort. In 1976, denim trousers were shown on the catwalk for the first time by Calvin Klein, marking the debut of designer denim on the global fashion stage.
Japanese perfection
When American soldiers left Japan after World War II, they left behind many of their belongings — including jeans. Denim quickly became a highly sought-after item among Japanese youth, and it entered a brand-new market.
Thousands of used Levi’s 501s were imported from the U.S. each month, but demand still far outpaced supply. In 1963, Canton Jeans produced the first Japanese denim trousers using American denim from Canton Mills in New York — a true Japanese replica of the Levi’s 501.
In the late 1960s, American manufacturers replaced the shuttle loom with the projectile loom to increase output. However, this came at the expense of textile quality. As a result, Japan’s desire to produce its own high-quality denim grew stronger. After eight attempts, the Kurabo company successfully created the first Japanese selvedge denim in 1972, named KD-8 or Kurabo Denim 8. It was traditionally woven on shuttle looms and dyed with authentic indigo in Kojima, Okayama.
Of the shuttle looms still operating today, the majority are found in Kojima — making it the primary production hub for selvedge denim, and a global mecca for premium denim craftsmanship.
The Japanese concept of takumi describes the nation’s approach to craftsmanship: pride in traditional techniques and cultural heritage, and a commitment to perfection. This philosophy rejects mass production in favour of preserving the true soul of denim. It’s an approach that has turned denim-making into an art form and elevated Japanese denim to the very top of the global stage.