Sustainable fashion
The clothing industry is one of the most environmentally damaging industries in the world. It is responsible for up to 10% of annual global CO₂ emissions and 20% of the world’s wastewater and water pollution, with chemicals and microplastics ending up in local water systems and the ocean.
Many companies in the industry produce in low-wage countries to keep mass production costs low. It is estimated that 100 billion garments are produced every year—an indication of overproduction, which leads to waste.
Paradoxically, it is also one of the easiest industries to influence, as production is driven by consumer demand. This is why sustainable fashion has become a major focus in recent years. Copenhagen Fashion Week, for example, has introduced a set of “Sustainability Requirements” for brands wishing to showcase at the event. It’s a step in the right direction—but what does sustainable fashion really mean?
Reuse
By reusing clothing, we can extend a garment’s lifespan and reduce waste. There are three main ways to reuse:
Reuse for the same purpose refers to what consumers do when they shop second-hand or buy pre-owned clothing for personal use.
Upcycling is reuse for a new purpose, where parts of discarded garments are creatively sewn together to form a new design and product.
Recycling is also reuse for a new purpose, but involves collecting, sorting, and breaking down discarded clothing into textile fibers. These fibers can then be reused and woven into new fabric for future use.
Sustainable organic textiles
Organic cotton is a sustainable alternative to conventional cotton for several reasons. It comes from the cotton plant and is grown without chemicals and pesticides, which helps protect the surrounding environment. Organic cotton is also cultivated using methods that reduce energy and water consumption compared to conventional cotton.
Recycled cotton is made from waste cotton generated during the production process or from post-consumer sources. This includes fabric scraps, defective products, or unsold second-hand clothing.
Hemp is considered one of the most sustainable materials. The hemp plant grows quickly, requires little water, and the entire plant can be used. It absorbs large amounts of CO₂ from the atmosphere and is often described as a carbon-negative raw material. Hemp also has antimicrobial properties, naturally purifies the soil, and repels pests.
Linen comes from the flax plant, which needs no fertilizers, pesticides, or chemicals, and requires only a minimal amount of water. Like hemp, the entire plant is used, minimizing waste.
Wool comes from sheep and alpacas, making it a renewable resource. It is also biodegradable. For wool to be considered sustainable, it is important that ecological standards are upheld in the raising of the animals—such as organic feed and the absence of chemical treatments.
Sustainable synthetic and semi-synthetic textiles
Recycled polyester is made from plastic waste such as bottles and fishing nets. The waste is crushed, cleaned, melted, and spun into new textile fibers. Although petroleum is still used in the process, the amount is significantly less than what is needed to produce virgin polyester. However, it’s important to note that recycled polyester can still release microplastics when washed.
Bamboo requires minimal water and is grown without chemicals or pesticides. It grows quickly, absorbs CO₂, and produces oxygen. As a textile, bamboo is soft, smooth, and breathable. To achieve these qualities, bamboo is typically boiled with a range of chemicals to produce bamboo viscose. For this process to be environmentally friendly, it must take place in a closed-loop system where chemicals are reused and prevented from leaking into the environment.
Lyocell (e.g. TENCEL™) and ECOVERO™ are man-made fibers derived from plants and trees. These are alternative cellulose- and viscose-based fibers, produced through a chemical process in a closed-loop system that recycles water and solvents, minimizing environmental impact.
Sustainable dyeing
Undyed clothing is the most sustainable choice.
Digital printing is the next best alternative. Its level of sustainability depends on the type of ink and dye used. Some prints still require post-treatment, and not all textiles are suitable for digital printing.
Synthetic dyeing is more sustainable than natural dyeing from an industrial standpoint. Synthetic pigments are petroleum-based, non-biodegradable, and can pollute water systems.
Natural dyes come from plants, trees, and food sources—for example, indigo for blue, coffee for brown, or red cabbage for purple. They are biodegradable, renewable, and almost harmless to the environment.
Nevertheless, synthetic pigments are considered a better alternative than natural dyes for large-scale production. This is because natural dyeing cannot be scaled effectively—it requires too many resources and does not consistently produce the same results. Synthetic dyes are highly concentrated and offer a level of color quality and durability that many natural dyes cannot match.
Natural dyeing is better suited for small-scale production, while synthetic dyeing is more practical for mass production.
Greenwashing
Greenwashing is misleading marketing that portrays products as more environmentally friendly than they actually are. It often includes vague claims, misleading visuals, or even outright lies. Words like “green” and “eco-friendly,” along with idyllic imagery presented without relevant documentation or meaning, amount to empty promises. Greenwashing can also involve exaggerating minor environmental efforts to appear more sustainable than reality.
Not only is this unethical — it’s also illegal if it violates marketing regulations.
To ensure companies act responsibly, a number of certifications exist to verify their sustainability efforts:
Global Organic Textile Standard (GOTS): Ensures organic farming, limited chemical use, and social responsibility.
OEKO-TEX Standard 100: Tests clothing for harmful substances and chemicals.
Global Recycled Standard (GRS): Verifies recycled content and enforces social and environmental standards.
Responsible Wool Standard (RWS): Ensures animal welfare, sustainable land management, and fair labor practices.
European Flax: Guarantees that flax is grown in Europe under strict environmental standards.
FSC (Forest Stewardship Council): Certifies responsible forest management, relevant for textiles derived from wood or plant fibers.
Bluesign®: Ensures responsible textile production, especially in terms of chemical use and worker safety—particularly relevant for synthetic and semi-synthetic materials.